Having hit the Peruvian coast, it wasn’t long before we left the busy Pan American Highway to ride east into Peru’s central highlands and then north towards Ecuador. Exiting Lima, we experienced the worst traffic to date and we were relieved to get out of there unscathed. We spent the next two weeks exploring towns that were well off the tourist trail and were touched by the friendliness we encountered.

The true standouts of northern Peru are the lesser known archaeological treasures left behind by the pre-Inca civilisations that inhabited this region. We visited ancient townships, temples and museums showcasing the rich cultures of these peoples.

In the town of Lambayeque we had the privilege of meeting the Lord of Sipan. Belonging to the Moche civilisation, who lived in this region 1,500 years ago, his royal tomb is one of many that have been discovered intact i.e. untouched by the Spanish conquistadores and local grave robbers. These ancient leaders have been described by archeologists as “kings of bling” due to the riches of their ceremonial dress. Read the fascinating story of this tomb’s discovery by clicking here.

he Lord of Sipan was buried with six other individuals with a wealth of items and offerings needed for the afterlife. We marvelled at gold, silver, copper and semi-precious stones used to create headdresses, breast plates and jewellery, showcasing the intricate and sophisticated workmanship of their craftsmen. We were unable to take photos in this museum, but you can see some of the relics by clicking here.

These cultures did not have a written script, so their culture was extensively recorded by their artisans, particularly in ceramics and metalwork. Those people out there who love baked clay would be in raptures (you know who you are!). We were fascinated by the intricate portrait vessels depicting prisoners with all manner of facial expressions, with ropes tied around their necks.

At Chan Chan, we saw the largest adobe (mud brick) city in the world, built in 1300AD as the capital of the Chimu empire. As you would expect, the mud brick buildings have largely been ravaged by the weather and cannot compare to the enduring beauty of Incan stone constructions, but some have been partially restored, hinting at their former glory. The city was once immense, covering 20 square kilometres and providing a home for about 30,000 people.

We continue to be surprised and delighted by what we see and learn on our travels. We are constantly reminded of how fortunate we are to make this journey and how incredible this planet is!

More photos and captions can be seen on our online gallery.

Tarma, a pretty town in the central highlands.

Village life in Peru.

Spectacular riding to Chavin. This new road turned into deep gravel shortly after this photo was taken.

Impressive for its underground chambers. The exceptional engineering has allowed the chambers to withstand many earthquakes and landslides during the 3000 years since it was built. This section is in original condition (save the electic lighting). The complex was a major ceremonial centre for the Chavin culture.

Carved heads belonging to Chavin.

From Huaraz, we spent a day around the Lagunas Llanganuco…..

Laguna 69 – it really deserves a more imaginative name.

Across the desert lies where you can see the enormous colourful friezes outside the pyrimid. The whole in the top was created by Spanish looters.

Chan Chan was the capital of the Chimu people. Here’s the cermonial courtyard built around 1300 AD, with recreated wall designs (sea otters and seabirds) and statue.

We couldn’t take photos of Lord Sipan, so here’s a photo of one of the findings from the Lord of Sican’s tomb (different culture but equally as blingy!).

Moche portrait vases with stirrup handles. It is believed that these are portraits of the same person, made by different artists at different times. Historians have been able to learn a lot about Moche life due to the excellent craftsmanship of their cermanics.

Can you believe this bottle was crafted sometime between 1-800AD?!

The Lord of Sipan’s bling is showcased in the Museo Tumbes Reales de Spian. The museum was built to ressemble a Moche pyramid. You enter at the top and wander through the treasures in the order that archeologists discovered them – too cool.