When travelling from country to country, we notice and enjoy learning the little differences that exist in all parts of life. When it comes to the road, it is essential that we observe and adapt quickly. So far, Peru has been the most difficult to understand, but after more than 5000km of riding in this country, we discovered there was a well ordered system of road rules that everybody follows. Those rules are as follows:
1) You must have a very loud working horn and use it liberally.
2) When approaching an intersection, no slowing down is required. Proceed at speed, with horn blaring.
3) Feel free to ignore the horns of others, as well as the “don’t use your horn” signs in residential areas.
4) Turning in any direction, from any lane, is permissible.
5) One way signs must be observed, but this only refers to the direction the vehicle faces, not the direction it is moving.
6) Public transport drivers must stop suddenly, regardless of what lane you are in, when flagged down by a pedestrian. Do not pull over or signal to warn vehicles travelling behind you.
7) When overtaking on a blind corner, assume there is no oncoming traffic.
8) Motorcycles need less room than you think. Overtake them on either side, preferably in their lane.
9) Whenever you see a motorcyclist ahead, get right behind them and blast your horn, just for fun.
10) Your hazard lights are your wild card. They can be used to signal any driving manoeuvre: turning left, turning right, stopping, starting, merging, reversing, swerving etc. When in use, consider other drivers forewarned of all your future actions.
11) It is acceptable to transport live animals on the roof of your vehicle – sheep, goats, llamas, guinea pigs, anything. Even humans.
12) It is forbidden to cover your load or to stop when you notice debris flying off the back of your vehicle.
13) You must adhere to these rules when driving a Peruvian vehicle in neighbouring countries, regardless of their local laws. We need to show the world how it’s done.
Special rules for road management and road work crews:
14) When planning temporary bypass routes, any old goat track is OK for general traffic.
15) Once traffic has been diverted down such roads, do not provide any further directions to get them back to their intended route.
16) It is not necessary to provide advance warning to road users that the road ahead will be closed for the day and that they need to make alternative arrangements.
17) Do not remove detour signs once road works are completed.
18) When roads become pot-hole ridden, it is cheaper and easier to let local village children fill them in and beg drivers for tips.
19) Road workers should stop whatever they are doing and watch vehicles pass – the work may take longer, but it will be more interesting for them.
20) When you see a woman on a foreign motorcycle, it is perfectly acceptable to wolf whistle.
Below are some of the shots taken on the road from Matt’s helmet cam. More are on our photo gallery here.

Hey you two intrepid motoqueros……love your summary of road realities. I see nothing has changed since I was riding there on a Honda XR600 many years ago. It sure is a wild and wooly country with a laissez faire approach to most things. The only place I have ridden and driven that is even worse than Peru is India and believe me it is a lot worse. But don’t you love all the shrines from accidents along the mountain roads, does it make you reflect on your mortality?
Another subject worth your creative approach is the Peruvian food, surely you are sick of huevos and queso by now. Do they have humitas in Peru? You don’t even get the questionable joy of pollo ala brasa or lomo salteado so how do you survive?
Keep up the heroic work…..from Rex and Rosie.
Hi Rex and Rosie. People think our Honda CB250s are big bikes around here, so your XR600 must have been massive! They do have humitas in Peru and they are delicious, but our vegetarian days are all but a distant memory and now just a preferred way of eating. We wouldn’t have survived long if we didn’t make some changes. We’ve had plenty of lomo and pollo salteados!
you must be gone from oUr little town of Volcán by nOw , and fOund it a bIt anti-climactic after your visIts to more exotic climes. Enjoyeded our brIef encounter and wish you well.
PS your descriPtion of Peru’s poor driving conditions is a bIt redolent of the «Ahn’t we Anglo-Saxon tourists superiah to these primitives» school Of travelogue, but PerhaPs the British Council can arrange better transport fOr fOreigners passing through. I ound driving in Lima, Cuzco, nazca and intervening point a rather uneventful.
Hi David. Whilst there’s nothing in this blog that we didn’t experience in Peru (much of it repetitively), I agree that it is perhaps not the most balanced or fair blog we’ve posted to date about this trip.
It was great to meet you and you definitely gave us some interesting stories and perspectives on Panama. Thank you!!