When travelling from country to country, we notice and enjoy learning the little differences that exist in all parts of life. When it comes to the road, it is essential that we observe and adapt quickly. So far, Peru has been the most difficult to understand, but after more than 5000km of riding in this country, we discovered there was a well ordered system of road rules that everybody follows. Those rules are as follows: Continue reading
When you hear about a recently opened, beautifully paved road that goes from Peru’s jungle to its coast, it is impossible to resist. We didn’t know at the time, but this road – the Interoceanic Highway – had been dubbed by the Wall Street Journal as South America’s Route 66. Continue reading
If I had a bucket list, one of the top few items would have been ticked once I saw Machu Picchu with my own eyes. This place is a true wonder and we spent the full day exploring every corner of the site. It must also have been a special day for two new brides-to-be who suddenly saw their boyfriends on one knee! However, there are many other lesser known and unique treasures throughout this area, aptly called the Sacred Valley. Continue reading
We had been cold for way too long so it was time to descend to the jungle and warm our bones. A two day ride took us from the barren high plains of the Bolivian altiplano, down through a misty cloud forest and into the verdant Amazon basin. It was pure joy to ride unencumbered by layers upon layers of warm riding gear.
Our destination was Villa Tunari where I hoped to see an old friend. Unfortunately I was too late. Continue reading
As we approached the World Heritage Bolivian city of Potosí, all we saw was a dominating and unnaturally stark mountain with a city at its feet. In the cold thin air of the inhospitable Andes ranges, it is an unlikely location for what was once the largest and wealthiest city of the Americas.
When the Spanish first arrived in the 1540’s they saw the same mountain, but in their eyes it was a mountain of money. Cerro Rico (Rich Mountain), also known as the “mountain that eats men alive”, contained an inconceivable amount of silver thus setting Potosí’s great rise and fall. I had to go inside for a look. Continue reading
Our first view of the Argentinan/Bolivian border was almost comical. A frantic flow of pedestrian traffic forced us to a stop on the road. I was reminded of a trail of industrious leaf cutter ants as we waited for a break that didn’t come. Locals ran back and forth carrying and pushing loads way bigger than themselves with a life or death sense of urgency. Our eyes followed this line of activity across a bridge to our destination. On the other side, we saw a road clogged with roadside stalls, red taillights and general chaos. There was Bolivia. Continue reading
From Foz do Iguacu, Brazil, we crossed back into Argentina. We traversed the dusty, crusty Gran Chaco region and after four days of flat nothingness, we were thrilled to ride up high and see the ice-capped Andean peaks again. Continue reading
Dear Brazil
We wanted to write and say thank you for having us. We came to you with a little apprehension: you are so big and we knew nothing about your language but this feeling evaporated as we got to know you better. Continue reading
We have made four border crossings now, each with their own quirks but all following the same basic procedure: exit ourselves (immigration) then exit the motorbikes (customs) from the current country; ride across an empty “no man’s land” between the two countries; enter ourselves (immigration) and enter the motorbikes (customs) into the new country. Continue reading
After riding the Ruta 3, it was now time for a holiday from a holiday. What better place to do it than the magnificent city of Buenos Aires? Even better – we enjoyed the company of Matt’s parents who had travelled from Sydney to see us. Continue reading
Our Odyssey Overland 