After deciding that our budget wasn’t going to get us to Ecuador’s Galapagos Islands, we passed through the country in less than two weeks. It was a stark contrast to our time in Peru Continue reading
Passing through Ecuador
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Rules of the Road: Peru
When travelling from country to country, we notice and enjoy learning the little differences that exist in all parts of life. When it comes to the road, it is essential that we observe and adapt quickly. So far, Peru has been the most difficult to understand, but after more than 5000km of riding in this country, we discovered there was a well ordered system of road rules that everybody follows. Those rules are as follows: Continue reading
Meeting a “King of Bling”
Having hit the Peruvian coast, it wasn’t long before we left the busy Pan American Highway to ride east into Peru’s central highlands and then north towards Ecuador. Exiting Lima, we experienced the worst traffic to date and we were relieved to get out of there unscathed. We spent the next two weeks exploring towns that were well off the tourist trail and were touched by the friendliness we encountered.
The true standouts of northern Peru are the lesser known archaeological treasures left behind by the pre-Inca civilisations that inhabited this region. We visited ancient townships, temples and museums showcasing the rich cultures of these peoples. Continue reading
Riding South America’s “Route 66”
When you hear about a recently opened, beautifully paved road that goes from Peru’s jungle to its coast, it is impossible to resist. We didn’t know at the time, but this road – the Interoceanic Highway – had been dubbed by the Wall Street Journal as South America’s Route 66. Continue reading
Exploring Peru’s Sacred Valley
If I had a bucket list, one of the top few items would have been ticked once I saw Machu Picchu with my own eyes. This place is a true wonder and we spent the full day exploring every corner of the site. It must also have been a special day for two new brides-to-be who suddenly saw their boyfriends on one knee! However, there are many other lesser known and unique treasures throughout this area, aptly called the Sacred Valley. Continue reading
From the highs to the lows of Bolivia (and back again)
We had been cold for way too long so it was time to descend to the jungle and warm our bones. A two day ride took us from the barren high plains of the Bolivian altiplano, down through a misty cloud forest and into the verdant Amazon basin. It was pure joy to ride unencumbered by layers upon layers of warm riding gear.
Our destination was Villa Tunari where I hoped to see an old friend. Unfortunately I was too late. Continue reading
Potosí: a City in the Shadow of a Mountain
As we approached the World Heritage Bolivian city of Potosí, all we saw was a dominating and unnaturally stark mountain with a city at its feet. In the cold thin air of the inhospitable Andes ranges, it is an unlikely location for what was once the largest and wealthiest city of the Americas.
When the Spanish first arrived in the 1540’s they saw the same mountain, but in their eyes it was a mountain of money. Cerro Rico (Rich Mountain), also known as the “mountain that eats men alive”, contained an inconceivable amount of silver thus setting Potosí’s great rise and fall. I had to go inside for a look. Continue reading
Spanish School Dropouts
No Nos Gusta Me Gusta Spanish School
Sucre, Bolivia’s capital, is a beautiful town of white-washed colonial buildings and pretty plazas. It is also a well-known place to study Spanish and after six months on the road, we felt it was time to broaden our knowledge of the language. Continue reading
Bolivia: Entering the “real” South America
Our first view of the Argentinan/Bolivian border was almost comical. A frantic flow of pedestrian traffic forced us to a stop on the road. I was reminded of a trail of industrious leaf cutter ants as we waited for a break that didn’t come. Locals ran back and forth carrying and pushing loads way bigger than themselves with a life or death sense of urgency. Our eyes followed this line of activity across a bridge to our destination. On the other side, we saw a road clogged with roadside stalls, red taillights and general chaos. There was Bolivia. Continue reading
Getting High in Argentina
From Foz do Iguacu, Brazil, we crossed back into Argentina. We traversed the dusty, crusty Gran Chaco region and after four days of flat nothingness, we were thrilled to ride up high and see the ice-capped Andean peaks again. Continue reading
Our Odyssey Overland 