Thanks to our fellow two-wheeled traveller Adrian, a cycling Frenchman, we left El Calafate with bellies full of freshly made churros and a recommendation for a campsite (& bakery!) in our next destination – El Chaltén.
As we approached, we could see a dramatically shaped collection of peaks, the tallest of which was Cerro Fitz Roy. Days later when we were over 200km away and riding out of the region, we could still see Cerro Fitz Roy standing out from the already impressive Andes range.
We tackled the two most popular trails: a 28km hike to see Cerro Torre and a 25km hike to view Cerro Fitz Roy. Torre decided to hide behind the clouds the day we visited but Fitz Roy was crystal clear and magnificent. The paths led us through gorgeous beech forests that were just starting to show their fiery autumn colours.
However, the clear days made for frosty mornings and we often awoke to find our tent covered with ice. We’d loved camping along the way but had to admit this was getting too cold for us. It was time to head to warmer climes and begin the 3,000 kilometre slog to Buenos Aires. To avoid ripio roads, we first had to cross the country to Rio Gallegos and join the Ruta 3, the only paved road leading north to the capital.
More photos of El Chaltén, click here.
Our Odyssey Overland 
From Rosie and Rex, Hello to you amazing travellers, We sure are enjoying your notes and photos but are kind of sorry that you are heading north already but time marches on. The hikes and countryside around El Chalten was really good but it is a long way off the main road. We have not been on the section between Rio Gallegos and Buenos Aires so we hope you enjoy it, distances are big aren’t they. We had a long chat with Roz and she mentioned that your parents are coming to meet up in Buenos Aires. We had some extra time there and did a really good three day excursion. This was five years ago but it probably still operates. It was done by an outfit called BUQUEBUS, their office is in downtown BA. They sell a package tour and take you by ferry across the river to Uruguay to the world heritage town of Colonia del Sacramento, hotel there, then bus to Montevideo, (capital city) hotel there, then hydrofoil ferry back to BA. BUQUEBUS owns the ferries, the hotels are three star,all the connections are organized and we felt that it was just fine for us. Plus it gave us another country and was rather good value, cheap actually. Also we recommend the day trip to Tigre Delta. You can go on a metro train from the main central station, Retiro. Can return on a different train, Train de la Costa. Should do the cruise boat ride around the river branches and canals of this huge river delta….nothing like it in Australia. Also, we strongly recommend high tea at the Alvear palace. This is one of the top twenty heritage hotels in the world, the tea service and accompanying food is outstanding, the value is excellent and you will not need dinner that night. Because BA hours are strange, it does not start until four PM…..maybe you should enquire first but we found it easy, also a great place to wander and explore. We could not afford their rooms but the afternoon tea was easy. Back to BUQUEBUS …..I now remember that we had to organize a day or two in advance so they could take our passport and secure Uruguay visa…..I am a bit vague on this….5years ago. Anyway, travel well and enjoy every day, Best wishes from Rosie and Rex. Also, the Buenos Aires antique, estate jewellery and flea market is probably the best in the world, This is a MUST.
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Hi Rex and Rosie – thanks for your tips. We will be catching a ferry to Colonia with our motorbikes and continuing our journey from there, but my parents who are with me now will be organising a tour similar to the one you mentioned through Buquebus. We wouldn’t have thought to go to Tigre unless you suggested it and it was fabulous. We caught the train then did a 2 hour cruise around the delta. This was really quite a unique experience. We’ve seen Alvear Palace from a walking tour, but probably won’t make it back before we leave in the next few days. As for the markets, we are staying in San Telmo and the Sunday markets need to be seen to be believed. There’s so much to do and see here 2.5 weeks hasn’t been enough, but we have another 18 countries left on our itinerary so need to get moving! Speak again soon! Cheers, Matt.