Whoever came up with Colombia’s tourism slogan: “The only danger is wanting to stay” was bang on. We’ve found three different towns in which we could happily while away the rest of our days, the only country to make us feel this way in South America (don’t get too worried Mum).

Why? The Colombian countryside is gorgeous. We’ve hit it in the rainy season so the hills are especially green and plants are flourishing. Major roads lie under canopies of trees and white-walled, terracotta-tiled houses are smothered with colourful pot plants. Colombian people are happy, friendly people who are proud of  their country. Then there is the abundance of fresh fruit! It is such a joy to try new fruits with flavours that dance on our tastebuds.

Perhaps this appetite for life is only to be expected from a country that has emerged from decades of terrorism, murder and destruction, and nowhere was this more apparent to us than the city of Medellin. We saw three incredible, world class initiatives that have shaped this city’s impressive rebirth.

The first is Medellin’s metro system. Can you imagine a public transport system that residents are so proud of, it is devoid of litter and graffiti? Where PA announcements are delivered gently, like a whisper in your ear? Where users are encouraged to give up their seat for someone who looks tired (and they do!)? Where smiling staff roam the platforms willing to help, by providing information or taking your photo?

This transport system doesn’t finish at the end of the tracks. It has been taken high into the remotest and least privileged suburbs via cable car! Two cable car lines are integrated seamlessly into the network, cut commuting times by more than half and allowing residents to seek employment and stay connected to the city centre. Users pay the same price for a journey, regardless of where they start or finish – the equivalent of about AUD 0.80.

Second is a network of 27 parque de bibliotechas or library parks. We took a train & cable car combo to reach the hillside suburb of Santa Domingo. Wandering around its streets, it was hard to imagine that this was once one of the most notorious and violent slums in Latin America, sustaining a death toll of 6,349 in 1994. Its library park was opened in 2007 and offers books, computers, childcare, workshops and exhibitions to the neighbourhood and visitors. The imposing building has few windows but light streams down from skylights. The architect’s intention was to disconnect people from their reality of poverty outside, allowing them to dream a new reality inside. It was a welcoming space, run by earnest staff and quietly humming with activity.

Third are the city’s public spaces. Previously dangerous areas, where only the police would enter under the protection of the army, have not been demolished but restored and turned into positive spaces, often with public artworks on display. One famous Medellin artist – Fernando Botero – has donated many of his giant sculptures to decorate the town’s plazas.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Medellin and left feeling a great respect for a city that has worked hard to restore the dignity of its citizens and its spaces. Its people have every right to feel proud of their success.

See some of our photos from Medellin below.

Medellin’s metro – super clean, fast, reliable, friendly and cheap. Sydney’s Cityrail please take note.

The cable cars travel up into the hillside suburbs of Medellin. Passengers can hop on and off at several stations along the way.

Parque Biblioteca de España (library park) in the suburb of Santo Domingo, located high in the hills above Medellin, but now only about 30 minutes away by cable car. Note the lack of side windows – the architect’s intention was to disconnect people from their reality of poverty outside, allowing them to dream a new reality inside. Natural light floods into every level of the building through the clever use of skylights.

One of Fernando Botero’s donated sculptures in Plaza Botero, in front of the el Palacio de la Cultura Rafael Uribe. Botero is a celebrated son of Medellin and is one of Latin America’s most reknowned artists. His sculptures are characteristically chubby and disproportionate.

Locals have reclaimed their plazas with gusto.

More works by Botero – El Pajaro de Paz (Bird of Peace). The sculpture was damaged by a guerrilla bombing in 1996, killing many including young children. The artist requested that it remain as a symbol of the futility of violence and installed a new version alongside to emphasise the point.

This plaza was once referred to as the Plaza of Violence by locals. It was restored with the installation of a forest of lights and bamboo, and now hosts public art exhibitions.

This was once a derelict building known as the Headquarters of Crime. Rather than demolishing the building, the local government restored the building and turned it into…….

the headquarters of the Department of Education – a perfect example of Medellin turning the bad into something positive.

Below are some photos of our Colombian journey through to Medellin.

Our first site in Colombia, the spectacular Sanctuary of the Virgin of Las Lajas, built over the gorge of the Rio Guaitara.

Popayán – full of classic Spanish colonial architecture.

Our visit coincided with Halloween. They took their zombie make-up seriously, but most couldn’t hide the fun they were having.

We visited Tierradentro, famous for its underground tombs. They are believed to have been built somewhere between the 7th-9th centuries. The tombs are unique within the Americas and they have found about 100 scattered in the hills surrounding Tierradentro.

It is a 14km walk through countryside like this to reach all the tombs. This region was once a FARC stronghold, limiting tourism development. Since they’ve moved out, visitor numbers have apparently increased, but we saw no other visitors on the walk.

This little man kept us company whilst we waited for a bus. We were obviously quite strange and amusing to him!

Don Elias showed us around his coffee farm. He has worked with coffee since he was 12 years old.

Riding through the Valle de Cocora.

In Supia our hotel was near a bakery. We had fun watching the cake delivery men ride past our balcony. This guy was delivering two cakes, balancing one in each hand!

Our full photo gallery is available here.