After Torres del Paine, we bid farewell to Chile and crossed back into Argentina. The Ruta 40 led us into the heart of the Patagonian plains. We thought there would be little to look at, but we were mesmerised by the vastness of the land and sky. The infamous Patagonian winds picked up as the day progressed and with no features in the landscape to warn us of the gusts, we simply had to slow down, bare their brunt and stay upright as we made our way to El Calafate.

Perito Moreno Glacier is the star attraction of El Calafate. Although it is five kilometres wide, it is not the biggest glacier in Argentina but it is the most accessible with buses pouring out tourists onto the impressive series of walkways and viewing platforms lining the lakeshore metres from the glacier’s edge.

We decided to get a little closer.

Fitted with crampons and wearing every available piece of thermal clothing, we spent the day tramping on the glacier itself. The ice proved to be tricky but starkly beautiful terrain, revealing deep blue pools, cracks, crevasses and sink holes. It was a new world to both of us. The air and water were the freshest we’ll ever breathe and taste, having been trapped in the ice for thousands of years.

The experience ended with a scotch on the rocks, served with glacial ice. Sublime!

To see more photos click here.